The Island of Sumba

As told by Maxine Wilsey

DAY 1...Feb 14

We were up at 3:30 and out of the house by 4:00 AM for 
the trip to SUMBA with a group of twelve led by trip 
organizer and leader, Cathy Forgey. We all met at 
Terminal #1 Domestic and departed at 6:15 AM bound for 
Bali and then on to Sumba. We flew on BOURAQ Air. Hanneke 
caught up with us as we were boarding the last leg of 
the way at Bali. We were all relieved. This last stretch 
was a 1 3/4 hour flight from Bali to Sumba. The small jet 
was full and I wondered if these folks were flying in for 
the Pasola. One couple had a little three month old baby girl 
with lots of black curly hair. The plane was sooo hot! 
Everyone was fanning themselves. We flew and flew without 
seeing anything but blue above and blue below...and now and 
then a cloud or two. We had our second snack for the morning, 
consisting of a fried bread wedge and a cupcake with a 
sealed glass of water in a box. Finally we spotted Sumba. 
I was interested in the.landscape of very green rolling hills. 
Small villages could be seen in the distance. 

When we landed I thought...Cathy was right. The air DOES smell 
different on SUMBA. It feels hotter...and maybe drier Jakarta. We 
entered the airport and men and teen aged boys met us with smiles 
and handshakes. We entered wearing Tawna's beads around our necks. 
Eyes focused on those beads and Tawna began handing them out, 
but stopped when the crowd got a little thick and Cathy suggested 
she put them away. 

The bus came for us and took us to the Hotel Elvin where 
we left our luggage and proceeded to a village where we 
were invited to a traditional house warming by our 
guide, Umbu Charma. We walked across the bridge, seeing the 
village off in the distance, continued walking up the dirt 
road and were met by warriors in traditional dress and headwear 
and carrying spears and calling out to us singing and chanting...
"Who are you? Where are you from? What is the reason for your 
visit?" Tribesmen, answering for us, called back the appropriate 
responses and we were then invited to follow the men and welcomed 
into the village. The only reminders of being at the edge of 
the 21st century were the occasional pickup truck and motorcycle 
roaring by. 

We were entertained by four beautiful dancers accompanied by drums 
and trilling cries of women of the village. We enjoyed a 
delicious dinner which was served on the mat on the porch. We had 
removed our shoes according to protocol and sat in a circle on 
the mat and enjoyed listening to the conversation. David was 
there to help fill us in on the traditions and customs. When we 
returned to the hotel, some of us walked to the Wartel to make 
some phone calls. Wartel is an Indonesian term for the office 
available to people who have no phones in their homes. There 
were about five phone booths and a counter manned by the clerk 
who had the record of the phone cost. You paid him for the call. 
(I'm not sure if this was the day...or later on in the week.) 

DAY 2....Feb. 15

After breakfast together in the dining room, we boarded the bus 
at 9:00 and visited small villages. We took photos of a statue 
of Jesus in ikat in front of the Catholic Church and visited the 
inside, briefly leaving a donation if we wished. Visiting with 
workers within the church. We heard that the congregation was 
small and native Marapu belief over-rides dedication to Catholic 
teachings. They are struggling. We saw a new Mosque just walking 
distance from Pak Ibrim and Rambu Ata's home and took photos of 
the many tombs and also of their extended family within that area. 

Cathy presented the host couple with a large framed photo arrangement 
of their children. We were entertained by male and female dancers. 
Cathy had asked Retno to interpret the dance trainer's introductions 
to the dance routines. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of chicken, 
goat meat, rice, corn scallop and a green bean medley with tiny 
banana for dessert served by Rambu Ata. Ikats were hanging along 
the buildings and from lines around the yard. It was an intensely hot 
day but the hanging ikats helped shade the crowd. Salespeople were 
present as they were last night. We were approached by many villagers 
and urged to buy. 

We returned to the hotel and then on to "Bonsai beach" where 
many shells were collected and more sunscreen was applied. 
We wandered out into the shallow water past the bonsai trees 
and observed the most amazing number of starfish under foot. 
We suspected we had interrupted their mating day. 

Back at the motel and after a mandi, we enjoyed another delicious 
dinner in the dining room. David joined us along with Ona who has 
been studying weaving within the villages. Her home base is Boulder, 
Colorado USA. After dinner David spread out his display of area ikats 
which he was willing to sell. 

I visited at length with Yan Kila, an English teacher at the public 
jr. high school in the city. He offered to pick me up the next morning 
and take me to visit the school. I accepted. 


DAY 3... Feb 16

Jon picked me up at 7:00. I climbed on the back of his motorcycle and 
we zig-zagged through morning traffic to the school on the outskirts 
of Waingapu. The bus would pick me up on the way to the beach. There I 
met the headmaster and the eighth grade students who were ready to take 
their semester tests as soon as the duplicating machine could produce 
them. Someone was work ing on it. I had asked permission to leave a bag 
of pens and to take a photo. I talked with the students briefly as 
Jon interpreted. Then I was introduced to the staff and was prepared to 
wait on the porch for the bus. Jon suggested I wait inside and visit 
awhile because it would be too hot to stand outside. So the three of us 
sat in the lobby and talked about school policies, schedules, standards, 
uniforms, curriculum, hiring methods, tenure, retirement, salary, the 
"calling to teach" and the hope for a better life for all students, 
especially the poor. We also talked about world politics, US politics, 
world religions, Iraq situation, Marapu religion and the food shortage 
in central Sumba. The bus picked me up around 9:00. 

My mind was so full of all we had shared that I found it hard to 
concentrate on all the new sights out the window as the bus headed 
south on our way to a new area and a new beach. This area was 
quite hilly and it took a long while to reach the water even though 
it could be seen from the distance. We bought corn at a little 
settlement along the way. The entire area appeared to be very 
sparsely inhabited. We observed water buffalo being herded through 
rice fields as the way to plow the field. We stopped to take photos 
and try to communicate with some who were working the rice paddies. 
The people were shy, but accepted the offerings of hats and toys. 
Rambu Ata and Pak Ibrim accompanied us on this trip and when we 
arrived they helped prepare roasted fish from an open fire and 
served on banana leaves. Also helping with this was our driver, 
Pak Isak, guide Charma and bus boys Sipri and Tinuson. The fish had 
been purchased from a fisherman just in with his catch. No seasoning 
except for the salty sea water. We stopped to take pictures of a 
structure with thatched roof and double domes on the top. We 
wondered what significance it had. Came upon a group of hunters 
with spears. We asked them to stop and visit with us. Two waited 
to see what we wanted. The rest kept going down the road. They 
appeared frightened of us. We were told that children are threatened 
to behave or the "Dutch" will come back to get them! Perhaps they 
think that all light colored people are Dutch. 

After returning to the Elvin Hotel for a mandi and dinner, we packed 
our bags for our departure the next morning for the trip to West Sumba. 
People were in the lobby to visit with the group. David was showing 
some ikats. Jon the English teacher had returned, and all the salespeople 
were present just outside the main doors. 

DAY 4... Feb 17

On the way to West Sumba we stopped to observe the view and 
photograph a huge tree which was considered "Sacred". Legend says 
it came from India. Continuing on we came to the half-way mark 
between East and West Sumba. Taxes are to be collected here. We saw 
more wet fields being "plowed" simply by water buffalo walking 
through it. We stopped at Langa Lera Tea House for lunch which 
we had brought. School children in their red and white uniforms were 
walking home from school. I thought it would be a good time to hand 
out some colored pens. It didn't work out very well...so I didn't 
try that again. 

Recalling something that David had mentioned last night, I asked 
Retno to check it out with the busboys. Yes, sometimes Sumbanese 
like to vary their diet to include dog meat. Some folks raise 
dogs to sell at market and sometimes a whole truck load is seen 
going to market to be sold live. Since there is no refrigeration, 
both chickens and dogs are sold live at market. When a dog is 
purchased, he is led home on a rope and killed when needed. 
Sipro told us via Retno that after the dog is killed, gas is 
poured over it and set afire till the fur and skin is burned off. 
Then it is cut up into small pieces and cooked. The intestines 
as well as the organs are eaten. Dogs are preferred skinny and lean. 

Continuing on, the bus stopped and we walked on the road through 
the jungle with mahogany and pine trees lining the road. We learned 
that the Japanese had planted the mahogany trees while they occupied 
Sumba. Sumba had been bombed by the Japanese and 3000 people on the 
island died. The soldiers demanded food from the farms and villages. 
People do not like to discuss those very hard times. The Sumbanese 
people learned that the war had ended six months after the fact. 

Travelling on, we visited the village of Papati in West Sumba, 
where Eileen entertained the children with a bubble wand as they 
all sat on top of a flat tomb and a tethered water buffalo 
nonchalantly munched grass just a few feet away. We were invited 
to sit on the porch and visit with the man of the house, a member of 
parliament representing this area. He earns 2,000,000 Rp each 
month in this five year position. His tomb is under construction. 
It took three years to quarry the stone and 4000 men to move the 
stone 15 kilometers. Fifty water buffalo and pigs were sacrificed. 
to feed the crew. It began to rain, and then POUR down. We waited 
on the porch, watching the water form a small river beneath our 
feet before we made it back to the bus and on our way. 

Going through a small village we noticed a brightly painted van 
with the logo TWO LIVE CREW on the back. We learned that it was 
a ROCK group. Travelling on, we came upon an elderly lady sitting 
on her porch watching us. Pak Isak stopped the bus so that Jack 
could take her some lotions and soaps. She informed him that she 
wanted his glasses. She couldn't see. Back on the bus Betty 
suggested that he take her reading glasses to the lady to see 
if that might help her. He did. The little old lady put those 
glasses on and read the label on the lotion box to him. She was 
ecstatic. We on the bus were all very touched as we witnessed 
the sight from the bus windows. Betty went out to pose for a 
photo with the lady in the glasses and was presented with a 
gift...a woven purse. We all waved and cheered as we pulled away 
and continued on to Waikabubak and the Hotel Manandang. 

(I seem to have lost my way at this point. Our itinerary 
indicates that on this day..."we will visit the tomb at Anakalalong 
and then to Kapunduk where we will see one of the largest tombs on the 
island, Res. Moni. Nearby is Lai Tarung...a site "not built by 
mortals". I can't find reference to these in my photos. Can 
anyone help me out by jogging my memory a bit?) Is Lai Tarung the 
village we hiked up to the next day? 

We arrived at our hotel, set our luggage in our rooms and joined 
the group outside on the veranda for drinks and snacks before 
7:00 dinner. And dinner proved to be just as delicious in West Sumba 
as it had been in East Sumba. We were served chicken, pork, 
green beans, mixed vegetables in sauce, rice, a crepe platter, 
potatoes-sliced and baked(?) and other dishes I cannot recall. Mango 
and bananas were dessert. After dinner most went for a walk to 
market to shop. I stayed behind and met Soliman and his wife 
and small son. His wife is an attorney. She is the daughter 
of the late Raja of Tarung. It is my understanding that they had 
dated in high school and Suliman waited 12 years to marry her while 
he was accruing the bride price. According to ADAT tradition he must 
bring with him expensive gifts to be able to visit his in-laws. 
Cathy's group helped provide a horse as part of Soliman's gift 
so they could visit Tarung. I eventually purchased three large 
textiles from him...two cream with bright orange borders, and a 
Caliuda hinggi. 

DAY 5...FEB 18

We ate breakfast together in the large dining room. We noticed 
that the BBC was staying at the same hotel. We knew we would see 
more of them later at the Pasola. We left Hotel Manandang and 
hiked up to the village of Tarung. Cathy stopped along the path to 
visit with people she knew from other trips here. Tarung is the 
center for animistic Marapu religion. It is separate from the 
town of Waikabubak. Villagers do come down to town to shop at 
market, however. It was a gradual but steady uphill climb with a 
beautiful view as we approached the plateau on top. The buildings 
had very tall domes and there was a combination of both tradition
ally thatched along with some metal roofs. Many ancient tombs were 
all around. The skull tree was pointed out to us and also the 
hut from which bad spirits are released. Weavings of both palm 
baskets and textiles were plentiful. It didn't take long before we 
were approached by villagers asking us to make purchases. Weavers 
in Tarung are now using bright commercially dyed treads. I 
purchased many narrow headband scarves from a young girl. Later 
she came to me with one as a gift from her to me because I had 
bought so many from her. I wonder now if she had been the weaver 
of all my purchases. We saw large baskets of corn cobs and kernels
...and also one huge basket of popped corn! Wonder how they 
did that. 

We were invited inside two traditional homes. The first we 
visited held to strict Marapu tradition with men on one 
side of the dwelling and women on the other. The lady who 
visited with us commented on the condition of the men's half. 
Women could not come over and clean it up! The question was 
asked of the male guide about the opportunity for procreation. 
There were rooms available below for that purpose, was the answer. 
The lady of the house pointed out the top of the dwelling, 
where the spirits lived, the fire for cooking and the bedroom 
areas. (We noticed the large stereo sound center with kareoka 
in the center of the house.) The second home was "Christian", 
explained the woman showing the building. They did not adhere 
so strictly to traditions. Women and men could cross over to 
each other's side. Other than that, the interior was very 
similar to the first home. We spent the morning visiting with 
these beautiful people and taking many photos. One gentleman 
showed us his horse which was decorated for tomorrow's Pasola. 
Patty was willing to get on the pony for more photo opportunities 
for the rest of us. We left the village with a lighter load of 
tee shirts, caps, beads and toys and hurried back to the hotel 
to pack for our overnight stay in the Lamboya area. 
Pak Isak drove us to Mama Raja's garden house. The Raja died 
two years ago. His tomb was in the front yard of the large 
house whose porch was decorated with many water buffalo horns. 
Dinner was to be at 7:00, but the pig wasn't picked up until 
dark so we sat on the porch and got acquainted with our photo 
albums and weaving demonstrations. The pig arrived tied to a long 
pole. It was killed in front of us on the yard. (My eyes were shut.) 
Then it was carried to a blazing bonfire and laid in the flames, 
being turned back and forth as the bristles burned off and was 
constantly brushed with long straw brush as sparks flew. 
Eventually it was carried to the back porch where it was gutted 
and a portion cut off for dinner. Meanwhile, we were in the living 
room as gifts were given to Mama Raja. The BBC photographers 
had come and brought the hostess a Princess Di mug and a British 
flag. We ate dinner at 10:00 and retired shortly after that...on 
the porch and under mosquito nets and the huge water buffalo horns. 
The dogs barked and the baby cried so there was not a lot of 
sleeping...but an experience that will last in our memories. 

DAY 6... Feb 19

Pak Isak started the bus motor at 4:00AM and we climbed on board 
for the drop off point. We walked down the path in the pre-dawn 
darkness, seeing the light begin to color the sky peach and 
orange through the tall jungle trees. It was not crowded at the 
beach. We waited around and met some interesting people who had 
also come to wonder about the nyale worm and the Pasola. The 
BBC and also some French photographers had their tripods set up. 
Cathy said that this was not at all typical. Usually there are more 
Sumbanese and no photographers. We wondered how much the priests 
had been paid to rehearse their moves. Cathy took a group up to 
the top. Some of us waited around hoping for some action. It didn't 
happen. I met a lady from New York who writes children's science 
books for Scholastic Magazines. We met a man from Northern 
California who had come to see the pasola. I heard that the 
French photographed noodles in the water to substitute for the 
absent nyale worms! We finally walked back up the path of mud and 
rocks to the top, where the bus was waiting to take us to the 
pasola activities. Decorated horses and riders passed us...some 
slipping on the muddy rocks as they hurried along. 

On top was a large natural arena with gradually sloping hills on 
three sides, and a beautiful view of the ocean on the other. 
The action was already in process. Decorated ponies and riders with 
mock-spears in hand (long striped sticks) were poised and ready 
to attack the opposing team...who then chased them back and 
returned spears. Some blood spilled and crowds cheered. (We learned 
later that one rider died after a fall from his horse.) About three 
of us were sitting on a blanket when we saw people running in 
our direction. We scampered up the hill to get out of the way, not 
knowing if horses were behind the all the people. We learned later 
that someone had thrown a rock and started a stampede/riot of sorts. 
The panic was brief and no one was hurt. 

It was very hot out in the open. We didn't stay long...but headed 
for the beach and lunch. The sand was unusual...large round grains...
due to all the coral. We found some shells and played around in 
the water some. Back at the hotel the salesmen were busy selling 
textiles and carvings and trinkets. They seem to get new supplies 
often. We learned that Charma left to go back home. 

DAY 7.... Feb 20

We left on the bus at 7:30 for the Kodi area. We first stopped at 
Wiatakilo Sawa, a place where water pours from the mountain to 
provide water to the rice patties. Jack told us that Canadian 
Government had given aid to Indonesia in order to harness water 
power for electricity. Perhaps this had been one of the projects. 
We learned that the motor went out after the first year of operation 
and now the water is used for only irrigation. Some courageous 
ones walked up close to the mouth of the cave. Not me. In the 
distance we observed a lady and child doing laundry in the canal water. 
Eileen and Tawna went to visit with her. The lady asked them for money. 
Moving on in a westward direction, we passed by several schools in 
session. Children playing outside for recess were wearing their 
red and white uniforms, the standard color for public schools 
throughout Indonesia. Retno told me that on Saturdays, however, 
children wear their brown Girl Scout, Boy Scout uniforms to school. 

Continuing on we can see coffee, cocoa, coconut and banana trees. 
We stopped at a village to photograph a huge tomb enclosed by a new 
wooden fence. We were curious about the symbols decorating the tomb...
a heart with a cross and an anchor, a mamuli...and the head and the 
backside of a water buffalo. Above the head of the buffalo was a 
large cross. We asked a man from the village about the tomb. He told 
us that ten or more people are buried under it and that it was erected 
in 1986. When asked about the symbols, he explained to us that both 
Catholic and Protestant missionaries came about 45 years ago from 
Holland and Portugal. He said that only a small amount of people 
attend these churches. Another man, however, told us that only 1% 
of the citizens of that area were ADAT and the majority were 
Christian. (Either Catholic or Protestant). Bruce gave the man a 
cap with a Lutheran logo. We learned that the pastors in the area 
were Indonesian. We left packages of pens and paper for him to 
distribute among the children. 

As we rode along we observed rain water being collected from the 
tin roofs with bamboo stalks and then collected in a cisterns. 
Sometimes children waited along the road anticipating gifts from 
the bus. Cathy told us that some tourists give candy. They are not 
used to artificial sweets. We gave soft toys and tennis balls 
which were tossed from the bus. The children scrambled to pick 
them up. We passed a large Catholic church. 

We stopped at another village where poles from two old ADAT houses 
were standing. The man who guided us through his village told us 
they will rebuild when they can afford it. He showed us coffee 
trees in bloom, a home which had been shingled with bamboo. He told 
us the bamboo shingles would last up to 20 years. He also pointed 
out their sacred tree...where an offering of corn ears were tied 
together and placed in the tree. We learned at this (or the next 
village) that it costs 2000 Rp each month to send a child to school. 
We noticed many school age children around. We asked about the 
mortality rate of children, and were told that ten or twelve 
children, ages birth to twelve died this season due to cholera, not 
enough food or medicine. There are 5000 people in this area. The 
clinic rations out pills. They only receive 500 pills. (per month? 
per year?) 

We stopped to look at another huge "sacred tree" along the road. 
My photos show many people crowded around. This must have been 
near a village. We visited in a village with a young man wearing a 
silver cross around his neck. He said he got it for working at his 
church...a protestant church. This village shows both bamboo and thatched 
roofs. It was explained that corn and rice are harvested in December 
and March. After that comes bananas, jackfruit and vegetables. They 
have no extra food to trade with other villages. A clinic gives out 
medicine. A pasola with a different twist will be held in this area 
in March...between only two people. They find the winner in each 
village. (We did not ask how the winner was determined.) Did they 
spar with pasola spears or knives? We visited only one village where 
dogs barked at us. 

Returning to our bus at one village we found our bus had a flat 
tire...again. We photographed a man guiding his raft of long 
bamboo trunks floating down a river. Was it Patty who alerted 
us to this sight? We saw riders on their way to a pasola in the 
Kodi area. Riders and horses were decorated differently than 
those at the pasola we had witnessed. 

We passed by a sign: 
WELL COME to Art Shop Antiques and Souveneers for foreign Tourists
 
It is raining. We met up with Richard and Mark, BBC guys, who were 
returning from the Kodi pasola. They said it was much smaller 
than what we had seen. As we continue traveling along on a 
very rough road heading toward the beach we see cornfields. 
We also see cocoa trees. Some of the leaves are red. A discussion 
on the bus was about the water buffalo. They are eaten when they 
die and save the horns to decorate the entrance of their homes. 
We were followed on foot as we headed for the beach by people 
and children wanting to sell to us. Pak Isak asked them to stand 
back and wait until we finished. Then we made some purchases. Pak 
Isak told us to be careful and watch our stuff. The people are 
very poor and may reach into the bus and grab things. We didn't 
continue on to the next villages. The roads were too bad and the walk 
in might be too long. 

One more flat tire. Crowds of people came from the jungle to 
stand around and watch us. I gave a little boy on top of a water 
buffalo another of Levi's cars. He looked confused. I thought he was 
either going to throw it away, or give it away. Later, however, as 
people crowded around us, I saw him standing near me. The little 
car was in his pocket. Once again I wished I could speak the language. 
We circled back and stopped off at Pak Isak's home for Tea. His wife 
served us drinks and sweet avocado jello jigglers, hot rice pudding 
wrapped in banana leaves and also popcicles plastic containers. We 
visited with her and her children. I gave their son, Ricky, a little 
matchbox truck from my grandson, Levi. Later we walked around outside 
while waiting for the bus tires to be worked on. Some of us walked 
into a neighbor's yard to see deer fenced in their back yard. A buck 
was in a separate pen. Many children of the village joined us on our 
walk. They were so very proud to know our bus driver. Pak Isak's 
wife told us that perhaps we had gotten nails in the tires. Desperate 
people had scattered nails in the road so tourists would stop and buy 
on their way to the Pasola. Sure enough. We had a long nail in the tire. 
This was to be our third and last flat. 

Back at the hotel, we were greeted again by the salesmen. We made 
some more purchases. After dinner we visited with Soliman outside 
Cathy and Tawna's room. We said our good-byes. 

DAY 8...Feb 21...Saturday

Up at 5:45 for the much anticipated mandi, then finished packing 
to leave, had breakfast at 7:00 in the dining room. I went out to 
purchase the "Wounded Warrior" ikat from Pulu. He had spent 
some time with me the day before, explaining the symbols. Keri 
came to our room and gave us each a bead necklace. He told me he 
has no "Mama". He called me "Mama", and said we are all family. 
We went into the dining room as a group and thanked the staff 
who had been serving us. And we waved farewell to the couple 
from California who were having breakfast there. We boarded 
the bus at 8:15 and began out trek back to East Sumba. We stopped 
at the tomb of a Raja of this area. (See photo of tomb with two 
figures standing together.) His wife still lives in the village. 
Part of the fascination of this trip is not only the sights and 
scenery outside the bus windows, but also the lively conversations 
inside. Cathy is visiting with Eileen about her volunteer program. 
Patty and Jack are discussing finance. 

We are seeing terraced fields of rice and corn growing on the 
hills behind the rice. The homes which we are seeing are 
rectangular in shape, with woven mats attached to the exterior 
walls. Homes have different geometric designs in the weaving. 
Some have added color within the patterns. The roofs are metal 
with no traditional dome. Some homes are just built of cement blocks. 
Fat black pigs are running around the yards along with some goats 
and a dog or two. I haven't seen any cats. Cathy says they are around. 
Pat has a sore throat and Patty's system is still upset. She 
hasn't eaten since yesterday noon. Bruce appears to be napping. 
This would be his first nap since coming to Sumba. Too much to see. 
Tawna exchanged addresses with someone at that last village. 
Her beads on cords have been popular...as have been Eileen's 
bubbles, Bruce's cigarettes, Cathy's tennis balls and soft toys and 
Betty's "Cairney Salute". 

More discussions while traveling...
Pak Mohammad, who looks Arabic, has presently two wives who 
are Chinese. His first wife's father taught him the goldsmith trade. 
He has a lady friend who is a doctor. A typical Indonesian police 
report...."a dangerous criminal was apprehended. Two warning shots 
were fired in the air. The criminal was then shot in the back and 
killed." Patty suggested that this keeps court cases down.

When an animistic woman marries, she leaves her family and 
cannot return home.(Ask Cathy about Rambu Ata's visit with her 
father after 20 years, even though living on the same island.) 
A bus load of people met us with a goat tied on the top. 
We stopped for lunch at the Langa Lera Tea House. Retno, Eileen 
and I searched out a bathroom possibility...hopefully better than 
the immediate choices. We found one across the road for a cost 
of 200 rp each. Goats, dogs and pigs were roaming freely around 
the area. 

We returned to our Hotel Elvin. On the lobby wall is an architects 
design of the future Hotel Elvin. It shows a traditional ADAT roof. 
It is a future plan. Nothing immediate. 

A busload went to Rambu Ata's to do some textile shopping. I 
purchased a large skull tree ikat which Rambu Ata had woven, 
and a runner with a skull tree design. Upon returning back to 
the hotel, Retno came running from her room exclaiming that we had 
water!. (No water in all of Waingapu when we drove in today). Our 
mandi tub is full. Some are not. It was a false alarm. Water 
had not seriously reached us yet. 

Charma came by and said he had big problems. He is not sure about 
the Rende trip tomorrow. His older brother came to negotiate with 
Cathy. We WILL go to Rende tomorrow. Rambu Ana brought samples of 
hand woven fabric made into bags and purses. She took orders. I keep 
bemoaning the fact that I have no more suitcase room. I need to stop 
buying! 

The air conditioning has never really worked in room 2, so we got a 
fan instead. This turned out to be a very good idea. It dries out 
the hand washed things overnight and I can dry my hair (kind of) 
after a shampoo. Clothes have come back from the laundry. My feet 
and ankles seem to be swell ing. Need to walk more. Jack is not feeling 
well. 

DAY 9...February 22....Sunday

At breakfast, Mark of the BBC, stopped by to say farewell.  On the bus 
and on our way to Rende by 8:00. We are going parallel to the ocean. 
Open green fields are seen. Discussion on the bus near me was about 
the death penalty...whether or not it was really a deterrent to crime. 
It wasn't unless you are already in prison was the conclusion. We 
talked about Oprah's case. Oprah's attorney is a friend of Patty. 
We stop for a herd of white water buffalo in the road.

We stopped at a village where a brown sugar candy is made. When 
we entered the village on foot from the road it was very noticeable 
that the dry dirt ground had been swept clean. We saw cute fat 
black pigs running around, but no dogs. We were led to the back 
of the village and a bonfire where palm syrup was cooking in woven 
palm leaf baskets. It would then be poured into 3 inch rings of palm 
circles and dried. An elder demonstrated to us how he and others 
collect the juice from the Lanta Palms. The 60+ year old 
gentleman climbed a tree, basket in hand. When he reaches the top, he 
cuts a place in the fruit and collects the juice. He then climbs 
down and takes it to be cooked at the fire. Wine, as well as red 
sweet sugar, is made with this juice.This man climbs ten trees 
twice each day! He told us that a tree gets to be about 50 years old. 
Traveling on we observed a home surrounded by small coconut trees. 
A nursery. The conversation returned to Charma's absence. It was 
told that he left because he was not being treated with enough 
respect. He is a Raja's son and he was asked to go and purchase 
vegetables for us. His brother and sister-in-law are embarrassed 
that he left his job. I miss him. A potty-break on this road is no 
problem. No traffic. The bus stops and people scatter into the jungle. 
Tawna and Cathy encountered a big snake. We all can hear tropical 
birds. Vines entwine everything. Cathy told us that someone 
attempted to grow cotton in a field. Charma jokingly told folks that 
some would produce red cotton and some green and blue. The cotton 
plants were stolen by hopeful folks in the area. Joke backfired. 
Palm trees line the road. Children are bathing in a canal. 

We entered the village of PAU. I purchased four textiles of 
songet...with the extra thread woven through. We later learned 
that young girls weave and sell to earn money for school. Cathy 
purchased a lovely piece made by a 13 year old girl. She buys from 
her often. We watched a man weave. His grandmother taught him when 
he was a child. He works in the rice field as well as at the loom 
to make money. Textiles here are not ikats...but designs woven 
into the textile. 

We arrived at Rende. ADAT tradition says that only children and 
young women can wear white. Rambu Ana, who is accompanying us, 
says she cannot wear white. She is probably in her thirties. 
We photographed many tombs, including the "Sacred Rock". We 
learned that when the Rajah died, 15 horses were sacrificed. 
One needed to fall onto the sacred rock and shed blood. It did. 
The Queen of Rende is unmarried. No one could afford the "bride 
price". She is the "Keeper of the ADAT" at Rende. She is the daughter 
of the Rajah and his first wife. She was born in 1931. Has tattoos 
on her arms and smokes cigarettes. (I only noticed two women smoke. 
The other was Mama Rajah, Charma's mother.) Most of the men smoked, 
however. We noticed that each village is different. This one and Pau 
were more calm. At Rende we saw beautifully woven baskets and 
textiles. Lovely China cups for "Tea" with silver lids on top. The 
lids were marked with initials, so I am supposing they are loaned 
out some. We learned that the Dutch had built a hospital at this 
site. The Rajah's house is built where the hospital had been. 
We had dinner on the porch while the rain poured down on the white 
rocks between the buildings which formed a U-shape, and whose porches 
all connected. This made it easy to go from one place to another 
without crossing in the rain. The rain caused no mud. The village 
is built on rocks and sand. Puddles run clear. We were served boiled 
water, which they get from a spring near-by. The menu included 
fish, chicken, vegetable greens with pumpkin blossoms, soup with 
chicken and rice. Delicious. 

Several people returned to Waingapu with us, including Mama Rajah 
and Baru. Baru sat with me and I tried to communicate with her. I 
showed her my photo album and a map of Indonesia. I asked her to 
write her name in my Journal, and handed her a pen. She shook her 
head "No". I was then told that she had never gone to school. 
I later learned that she was a slave. She assists Mama Rajah. 
Slaves on Sumba date back to earliest recorded times. In the pasture 
we see white Brahma bulls. We see another bus. People travel from 
place to place by bus. I have seen few cars and they were 
government vehicles. I also noticed graffiti in all towns, and 
not in the villages. 

Back at Hotel Elvin I hung my textiles, hoping to let them dry 
before repacking them in my suit case. After dinner we gathered 
chairs in front of Cathy and Tawna's room to share textiles and 
critique them. We learned about techniques and symbols. It was 
noticed that there is so much variety in style on Sumba between 
villages which are just a few miles apart. Rambu Ata and Pak Ibrim 
came with a hinggi for Richard, the BBC nyale worm expert, to see. 
He eventually purchased it for 600,000 rp. 

DAY 10....February 23...Monday

We went to the harbor where Japanese invaded Sumba. The fox holes 
by the beach have never been filled...but left for foliage to 
grow in and around them. We walked by a Hindu Shrine with its 
ancient symbol prominently displayed. The Nazis borrowed it from 
them and called it a swastika. 

We passed by the East Sumba's governor's home. In order to work 
for the government, you must be of a recognized religion. Marapu 
religion is not recognized because it has no holy book. Our guide, 
Charma's brother told us one may profess to be Christian, but in 
your heart still remain Marapu. The governor is known to be very 
clever. He told the people that young corn must not be sold, but 
saved for seed. He instituted a work program. Our guide for the day, 
Umbu Nuku, was appointed Director of Religion/Education ADAT. 
Umbu Nuku converted to Christianity for the government job. 
We stopped at the state prison and talked with policemen and women 
there. We did not go inside. We learned that this prison holds 
260 men. The three women prisoners are not kept here. People 
employed here are from other islands than Sumba. The man who 
spoke to us said he had three years of "Corrections" training 
before being sent here by the government. He took six years of 
English in school, but said..."grammar makes me crazy." He learned 
English mainly through practice. His home is Flores. He is one 
of 43 people who work here. Four are women. The qualifications 
for both men and women are: You must be tall and strong and wear 
no glasses. You must be a high school graduate, passing the tests. 
You must have military training. He works eight hour shifts. 
At this prison there is high security, minimum security and 
open campus.(There are no for eigners here, but there are some 
on Bali.) Prisoners have no TV or reading materials. The punishment 
is 15 years in prison for killing in Indonesia. In prison...one 
learns a trade. All the money a prisoner makes goes into a bank account 
for him and given upon release. Rationale...no longer needs to 
be a thief is he has money. Twice a month the family may come to 
visit a prisoner and bring gifts. The maximum stay is 19 years for 
murder. With good behavior, time diminishes. A prisoner's needs 
are mostly filled by the government. Families do bring in gifts. 
Guards check all the gifts. No cans, plastic bags only. Inmates 
wash their own clothes and clean their own rooms. The cost per 
prisoner is about 32,000 Rp per year. They get rice three times a 
day. (Don't know what else) Prison life is not easy because you 
lose privileges of freedom, cigarettes, sex. "Are there repeat 
offenders?", we asked. Yes, because they are hungry...they steal. 
There are no suicides in prison. Children in their little red and 
white uniforms were playing inside the open gates of the prison yard. 
Their school is directly across the street. No one shooed them away. 

We walked to the Sumba Tourism Department building, and learned 
from a Mr. Sylvester, head of the department, that the hotels 
where we have been staying are both in the lll category, which will 
make them each a one star hotel soon. He formally introduced us 
to each of the staff, telling us that there are nineteen. One had 
died, the long man. (tall?) He had us each sign the guest book 
under "Study of the Culture". The interior was bleak. Cement floors, 
plain unadorned walls. No computer in sight, just one large manual 
typewriter similar to the one I learned with in my high school 
typing class. He spent some time introducing each one on the 
staff, telling about each one's background and qualifications 
for the job. There were no papers on anyone's desk. There were no 
brochures available. They were very glad to see us and were most 
gracious. Mr. Sylvester told us that there have been 5045 tourists 
visiting Sumba recorded up to 1997. Mostly they were from the US. 
853 came via ship, each ship bringing about 150 at a time. Some 
come from Australia and other islands. (I need help on this. 
Was he talking about 1996? or in all the years they have records?) 
He explained that the hotels report to him every three months. If 
the hotels forget to make their report, he calls them for the 
information. 

From there we went to the government hospital. A sign on a post 
leading up the walk to the entrance read, NO SPITTING. Cathy 
explained to us that spit is considered, by local people to have 
healing elements. It looked like a family of ten or more sitting 
on the porch, probably staying near a relative inside. A midwife 
took us on the hospital tour. We visited with a doctor on staff, Dr. 
Madi, from Bali. He had been at this hospital since 1983. He 
explained that training to become a doctor requires four years of 
college, two years medical training, three months of intern 
experience and then three years working for the government. After 
that time you may specialize. He said that he has no money to 
go on to specialize either on Bali or Java. He has the desire to go 
on...but he has two children to feed. He told us that all 
government employees are insured. He told us that they have one 
computer at this hospital, but no one can use it except for typing. 
(word processor) The hospital has a children's ward, surgery ward, 
babies' ward and a radiology lab. There are two specialists, 
four general practitioners and a dentist. It is a 70 bed hospital. 
Thirty beds were presently filled. The major illness they treat 
is malaria. He told us there are two hospitals in West Sumba and 
one private hospital in the East. (I am not certain of my notes here, 
need help.) 

A mid-wife in a green uniform took us on a tour of the hospital. 
She told us that most babies are born at home. They encourage 
first time mothers to come to the hospital to deliver. For the next 
children they can call for a mid-wife to come to the home, or she 
can go to the mid-wife. The cost for a hospital delivery is 25,000 rp. 
The nurse took us by a room where a very sick child with meningitis 
was Iying all hooked up to tubes. Cathy and Tawna stayed a bit and 
gave them some money, then came and joined us outside. We pitched 
in some rupiah to be sent back to them. Cathy told us when she 
returned to the room, the parents were giving thanks for all their 
blessings. 

In the afternoon, we boarded the bus again for a final visit 
with Rambu Ata and Pak Ibrim. Some how the village people 
found us there and began hanging up their textiles and coming 
to us with their wares to sell. We tried to ignore them and 
carry on with our visit. Rambu Ata served us ice water and glazed 
peanuts, and later cupcakes which she had baked over an open fire 
in her separately housed "kitchen". (I didn't see this kitchen. 
Let me know what it was like.) She gave each of us an IKAT as a 
good-bye gift, then the relatives all came around the circle and 
gave us hugs. Even grandma joined in with the authentic nose-brush 
caress across our cheeks. One lady gave the trill cry (what is 
that called?) It was a very soul-touching experience for me. 
That evening, Rambu Ana came with the order of bags and purses 
and Mama Rajah came to show her textiles to Cathy. The salesmen 
persisted outside the hotel lobby. We left at 7:00 for a special 
farewell dinner at a nearby restaurant. We had much fun visiting, 
laughing, photo taking and saying our thank yous. Our bus driver, 
Pak Isak, was with us. Our bus helpers were given their pay
ment and Pak Isak was given his payment along with our tips of 
thanks. We will be gone in the morning by 6:30. Our bags will be 
put on the bus at 6:00. 

Day 11...February 24, 1 998...Tuesday

After our last breakfast together, we said our good-byes to 
Sylvester and the staff at Hotel Elvin and boarded the bus. One 
of the salesmen gave us each a mamuli on a cord, and we were off for 
the airport. Rambu Ata, Pak Ibrim, Mama Rajah, Baru and Rambu Ana 
came to say good-bye. 

And once again we were on the plane. We were leaving Sumba. We had 
been there only ten days, but we were carrying home with us warm 
and colorful memories that will last our lifetimes. Visiting the 
island and meeting it's wonderful people was an outstanding 
opportunity. Being on the tour with such interesting and fun 
and congenial people was also an outstanding opportunity! I want 
to visit Sumba again.