The Island of Sumba

East of Bali is the island of Sumba, famous for its warp-ikat weaving.
The Sumbanese are a tribal people who still chew on the betel nut 
and receive inspiration for artistic works from the wildlife around 
them. 

They celebrate a ritualistic fiesta, Pasalo, during the hot 
season in April where male Sumbanese warriors, donning ceremonial 
dress, engage in "horse-battle".

Sumba, formerly known as the Sandalwood island, is known 
for its horses and Sumba cloth. The island is famous for its 
arts and handicrafts, particularly the textile "ikat" weaving.

Sumba, however, is not for everyone. Neither the food nor 
accommodation are up to international standards. But if you are 
willing to make some sacrifices, you can see an authentic, 
ancient culture with none of the layers of Hinduism or Islam
mostly found elsewhere in the country.

The island is roughly oval in shape. The greatest concentration 
of those who worship spirits (ancestral and those of the land) 
is found in West Sumba where two-thirds of the population hold 
on to their traditional belief. It is here where incredible
rituals take place - they celebrate a ritualistic fiesta, Pasalo, 
where male Sumbanese warriors, donning ceremonial dress, engage
in "horse-battle", where hundreds of horsemen fling spears at 
each other. (The government allows the ritual to take place, 
but the spears must be blunt).

Although some exist in East Sumba, it is in West Sumba that 
one can find a greater number of huge megalithic tombs and 
traditional thatched and peaked huts raised on stilts.

Many traditional activities, all with a part paying homage to 
the spirits, take place in the months of July through October. 
These include the building of "adat" houses and burials when 
sometimes hundreds of pigs, water buffaloes, horses, and dogs
are sacrificed. Other ceremonies include the "pajura" or 
traditional boxing, the festivals for the lunar new year in 
October and November, and August 17, Independence Day, horse 
races and ritual dances.



 Places to visit, things to experience

Waikabubak

A neat little town in Western Sumba, full of old graves carved 
in motifs of buffalo-horns, man-heads, horses, nude men or women 
symbolizing social status or the wealth of the people.

Right in the capital city of Waikabubak, you can see the following 
tombs: Kadung Tana, Watu Karagata, and Bulu Peka Mila. Tarung village, 
an important ceremonial center, is located on top of a hill, just a 
half kilometer to the west of Waikabubak.

There are several megalithic tombs. The front of many traditional 
houses are decorated with huge water buffalo horns from the animals 
sacrificed during rituals of years gone by.

Anakalang

The village is about 20 km from Waikabubak with its large graveyard (the largest
megalithic tombs in Sumba). The tombs are always with unusual carvings.
Anakalang is the site of the "Purung Takadonga", an important mass marriage
festival held every two years, on a date determinated by the full moon.

Pasola

The most exciting ritual of Sumba is to be witnessed right 
here. Where else in the world can you see colorful horsemen trying 
to kill each other? The ceremony is in February in Lamboya and Kodi, 
and in March in Gaura and Wanukaka. The main activities start 
several days after the full moon and coincide with the yearly 
arrival to shore of strange, multi-hued seaworms (Nyale worms).

East Sumba

This region is better known for its "ikat" weaving.

Near Waingapu, Kuta Beach is a good place to relax, and further down coast,
near Baing (125 km from Waingapu), there is great surfing at Kalala Beach. The
waves are best from December to May.